Upper South
Armed with a handcrafted map of the South Island courtesy of our daughter-in-law and detailed instructions
on scenic routes across the Southern Alps, we embarked on our journey to South Island. The
tranquil crossing
of the Cook Strait marked the beginning of our expedition. Initially, we lodged with friends in
Whatamango
Bay near Picton, indulging in a day of sailing through the Marlborough Sounds on
their yacht.
Our journey to Ruby Bay was punctuated by several memorable stops. First, we paused at the
Portage Hotel, a
favorite among hikers traversing the Queen Charlotte Track. Then, we took a leisurely stroll along the
Waterfall Track in Havelock, finding respite beneath the serene cascade. Our final stop in Hira, Lud
Valley,
reunited us with long-lost friends over a cup of tea.
As dusk descended, we savored a picturesque sunset while dining in Ruby Bay. The next day,
a detour to
Nelson was necessary to replace a damaged camera before crossing Takaka Hill, with a brief
stop at Riwaka
Resurgence Reserve, en route to Farewell Spit. Regrettably, only a portion of
the Spit was
accessible, but
we embraced the day's challenges with optimism.
Our subsequent journey through the Upper Buller Gorge and Westport
revealed a side of New Zealand previously
witnessed only through screens. The untamed West Coast, with its sprawling beaches battered
by colossal
waves, underscored nature's immense power. Nestled at the Kohaihai Conservation Campsite that night, we
embarked on the Scotts Beach Walk along the Heaphy Track the following morning, battling
persistent West
Coast blackflies.
Seeking refuge from the relentless insects, we redirected our course to Opara Basin. There,
we marveled at
the Opara Arch, explored the Mirror Tan, and ventured through the
Box Canyon Cave. The day's odyssey
concluded at Gentle Annie campground in Mokihinui, where we rested under the night sky, reflecting on the
wonders of our journey.
West Coast
The journey spanning 200 kilometers from Mokihinui to Lake Mahinapua offered an array of captivating stops.
Our day commenced with a visit to Westport Harbour, where we paid tribute to the MV Kaitawa
Memorial. The MV
Kaitawa, a 2,485-ton collier belonging to the Union Steamship Company, met a tragic fate on May 24, 1966,
near Cape Reinga, New Zealand, resulting in the loss of 29 crew members.
Continuing our drive, we paused at the Pancake Rocks and Blowholes Walk in Punakaiki,
marveling at the
unique geological formations resembling stacks of pancakes. These limestone wonders, shaped over millions of
years through erosion, captivated us with their intriguing horizontal layers. The accompanying blowholes,
formed by the sea surging into caverns beneath the rocks, provided a spectacular display of water spouts and
mist, especially during high tide and rough seas.
Our journey then led us to Greymouth, where we enjoyed panoramic views of the Tasman Sea
and the coastline
from the Southern Breakwater Viewing Platform. While hoping to witness boats crossing the famous Greymouth
sandbar, we instead observed a kayaker battling the river's current.
Before reaching Lake Mahinapua, we savored the picturesque Pororari Gorge Lookout Walk,
offering stunning
vistas of the Pororari River's clear waters, limestone cliffs, and lush forest.
Arriving at Lake Mahinapua's $6.00-a-night camping ground, we discovered a true gem
with its convenient lake
access, clean facilities, and refreshing cold showers. A swim in the lake followed by a hearty meal capped
off the day perfectly.
The following morning, we embarked on a serene paddleboarding session, witnessing the sunrise against the
backdrop of Aoraki (Mount Cook), a sight never to be forgotten. Our morning adventure also included a walk
to Okarito Trig, providing sensational views of the snow-capped Southern Alps and Aoraki, along with Franz
Josef Glacier.
Franz Josef Glacier, our first glacier visit of the trip, impressed us with its majestic
stretch from the
Southern Alps through lush rainforests, although its vulnerability to global warming was evident as we
ascended toward its summit, passing markers of its receding tongue.
That evening, we rested at Fox Glacier Top 10 Holiday Park, grateful for the convenience of a fully equipped
kitchen and hot showers.
To Otago
Our journey from Fox Glacier to Wanaka was packed with activities. We began with a leisurely stroll along
Lake
Matheson, renowned for its serene reflection of the surrounding mountains.
Our next destination was Fox Glacier, named after Sir William Fox, a former Prime Minister
of New
Zealand. This glacier extends from the Southern Alps to the temperate rainforest just 300 meters above sea
level. Sadly, like many glaciers worldwide, Fox Glacier is retreating due to global warming, altering its
surrounding landscape.
As we made our way towards the Haast Pass, nestled in the Southern Alps, we stopped at
several waterfalls.
First, Roaring Billy Falls captivated us with its picturesque beauty and thunderous
cascade. Then, Thunder
Creek Falls greeted us with its stunning 28-meter plunge into a tranquil pool, surrounded by lush
native
beech forest. Finally, Fantail Falls enchanted us with its graceful descent over rocks,
inspired by the New
Zealand fantail bird.
Our last excursion of the day was the Blue Pools Walk, where we marveled at the
crystal-clear,
turquoise-blue waters fed by the Makarora River, enriched by glacial silt suspended in the water.
That evening, we camped at Glendhu Bay Lakeside Holiday Park, where Fiona braved the cold
waters of the lake
to fend off sandfly bites. The following morning, under serene skies, we enjoyed perfect conditions for
paddleboarding.
Our journey continued with an off-road drive to Raspberry Flat Carpark, marking the beginning of the 10 km
Rob Roy Track. The trail meandered through beech forest, revealing stunning vistas of the
glacier, rugged
peaks, and cascading waterfalls.
While our time in Wanaka Town was brief, we marked it for future exploration. Since then, we've revisited
the town numerous times, always discovering new wonders in its vicinity.
Southland
We've allotted three days for our journey from Wanaka to the deep South. Our adventure kicked off with
a
stop at the historic Cardona Hotel, nestled along the breathtaking Crown Range Road between
Wanaka and
Queenstown. This charming hotel, one of New Zealand's oldest and most iconic, boasts rustic charm and a
rich
history set against a backdrop of spectacular mountains, making it a must-see in Central Otago.
Our next destination was Arrowtown, a quaint town with roots dating back to the Otago Gold
Rush of the
1860s. We wandered its historic streets, admiring preserved buildings and artifacts that recount tales of
the adventurous gold rush era. A highlight was visiting the Chinese Settlement along Bush Creek, a poignant
reminder of the contributions made by Chinese miners during that time.
Before settling at Te Anau Top 10 Holiday Park, we made a brief stop in Queenstown, the
winter capital of
New Zealand, for a leisurely lakeside stroll.
The next day began early as we headed to Milford Sound for a pre-arranged boat cruise.
Along the way, we
paused for a serene walk along the shores of Lake Gunn, known for its tranquil waters and
lush
surroundings.
The highlight of the day was the boat cruise in Milford Sound, where we marveled at Mitre Peak,
Stirling
Falls, and Lady Bowen Falls up close.
On our return journey, we briefly stopped at the Chasm to admire its natural beauty and the
power of the
flowing water through rocky terrain.
The following day, we bid farewell to Te Anau and drove to Invercargill. Initially planning to visit
Bluff,
we opted instead for Slope Point, the southernmost point of New Zealand's South
Island, known for its
windswept cliffs and rugged landscapes.
Arriving at Curio Bay in the Catlins, we considered camping at the intriguing campground
among the flax
bushes but ultimately stayed at Catlins Kiwi Holiday Park. There, we met someone who had recently purchased
an old bus converted into a campervan after selling their house in Arrowtown.
The next day, we explored McLean Falls and Purakaunui Falls, mesmerized by their
picturesque surroundings
and tranquil atmosphere, before spending our final night in Catlins at Pounawea Motor Camp in Owaka,
marking the end of our southern journey before heading northward.
Aoraki
Having wrapped up our time in the deep south, it was time to journey northward. We made a brief pitstop at
Moray Place in Dunedin to grab a bite and unwind before continuing on to the
Moeraki Boulders. Situated on
Koekohe Beach, these impressive spherical stones, composed of mud, silt, and clay, enduring coastal erosion
through the passage of time. Some of the boulders reach up to 2 meters in diameter and weigh several tons.
Fiona skillfully captured photos of the boulders amidst the challenge of avoiding other tourists. Leaving
the East
Coast behind, we set our sights on the Southern Alps. Although our lunch stop in Alexandra
left something to
be desired, we did pause to stretch our legs at the Clyde Dum Lookout near Cromwell, where
the Clyde Dam
stands as a significant hydroelectric feat. Finally, after covering over 400 kilometers, we arrived at the
Cromwell campground, relieved to rest our weary bodies.
The following morning, we explored the Old Cromwell Town, a relic of the gold rush era that
once drew
fortune-seekers to the region. Continuing our journey, we traversed Lindis Pass, passing
Omarama and Twizel,
and relished the breathtaking views of Aoraki/Mount Cook along Lake
Pukaki. Our hike to Kea Point in Hooker
Valley rewarded us with stunning vistas of New Zealand's highest peak and the surrounding Southern
Alps.
Mount John Observatory, nestled within the Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve,
offered
captivating daytime panoramas, though we missed the opportunity to stargaze. A visit to the Church of the
Good Shepherd in Tekapo capped off our day before retiring to Fairlie Top 10 Holiday Park
for the night.
After a restful night in Fairlie, we embarked on a short drive to Akaroa, a quaint coastal
town on the Banks
Peninsula renowned for its French heritage dating back to the early 19th century. From exploring the town's
charming streets to hiking the Onawe Pa Walk on the Onawe Peninsula, we immersed ourselves
in Akaroa's
unique ambiance.
The Passes
We had two key destinations left on our must-see list: Arthur's Pass and Lewis Pass.
To fully appreciate the
breathtaking views, we had to drive in the right direction. Heading west towards Arthur's Pass, we made
a
stop at Castle Hill, an extraordinary area nestled in the Southern Alps. Renowned for its distinct limestone
formations, sculpted over millions of years by natural forces, we found ourselves captivated and ended up
spending more time there than planned. With endless photo opportunities and various walking tracks, Castle
Hill was irresistible.
From the Arthur's Pass village, we hiked up to the Devil's Punchbowl Falls, a
magnificent waterfall
cascading over a sheer rock face, plummeting more than 100 meters into a deep pool below. The sheer power of
nature was mesmerizing. On the western side of the Pass, Bealey Chasm awaited us - a narrow
gorge carved by
the Bealey River over millennia, offering stunning views of the surrounding mountains and unique geological
features.
Before driving to Greymouth Seaside Top 10 Holiday Park, we embarked on the Dobson Nature
Walk, a serene
stroll along Sluice Box Lake, marking the end of our day's activities. The following day, we began with
a
leisurely walk at the top of Lewis Pass, reveling in the stunning alpine scenery - snow-capped peaks, beech
forests, and alpine meadows—all part of the breathtaking landscape. The Alpine Nature Walk
provided a
welcome break during our long drive, allowing us to immerse ourselves in the spectacular surroundings.
Our next stop was Hanmer Springs, a quaint resort town famous for its natural hot springs.
Here, we indulged
in the therapeutic waters, surrounded by picturesque alpine vistas, mountains, and forests - a perfect
setting
for relaxation. Afterward, we made our way to Goose Bay for camping, ending the day on a
tranquil note.
The following morning, we journeyed along the picturesque coast to Kaikoura, our last day
on the road. With
home beckoning, we paid less heed to tourist attractions. En route, we savored the stunning views of Cook
Strait and the distant North Island from Blenheim's Rarangi Beach. A short drive from
the beach led us to the Picton ferry terminal, marking the conclusion of our unforgettable South Island 2015
adventure.
