The Kaikoura Coast Track, a gem in North Canterbury, unfolds over two days across Ngaroma and Medina, picturesque farms owned by the Macfarlane and Handyside families, custodians for 27 years. With roots dating back to the 1870s and 1940s, these families bring generational commitment to the trail's maintenance. Spanning 26 km, the track gifts walkers with panoramic vistas of the coast, showcasing marine life, tussock-clad hilltops, and thriving farmland. The path meanders through lush bush-filled gullies, unveiling stunning Seaward Kaikoura Mountains against the Pacific backdrop. Its allure lies not just in the breathtaking scenery but in its solitude, capped at 10 people per day, ensuring an immersive, unspoiled experience. The Kaikoura Coast Track beckons adventurers to savor its tranquil beauty, steeped in familial history and untamed nature.
Day One
Our first day on the Kaikoura Coast Track was a unique and intimate experience, shaped by the unusual
circumstances brought about by the ongoing Covid impact. The Beach House, our accommodation
for the night,
became a quiet haven after the host shared the news that a large group had canceled, leaving only ourselves
and one other person on the trail for the next two days.
The evening was spent pleasantly, engaging in conversations with the host who shared intriguing insights
into the history of the track and the family's commitment to reforesting parts of the once farmed land
back
into native forests.
The following morning, we set out for a beachside stroll, navigating carefully around sunbathing seals on
the rocks. The serenity of the coastal walk, however, took a thrilling turn near the beach exit, where we
had to dash to higher ground to avoid getting soaked by the incoming surf.
Our co-walker, who had a faster pace, eventually separated from us, leaving the rest of the journey to be
enjoyed in solitude. Lunch was a tranquil affair at the Circle Shelter amidst coastal bush,
offering a
perfect respite. The final leg of the track took us through open farmland and the conservation area of
regenerating bush.
With only three of us on the trail, we found ample space at the Medina homestead. The
well-equipped kitchen
allowed us to prepare our meals, and the presence of an honesty box allowed us to indulge in ice creams and
cold beer.
As we sat around exchanging conversations that spanned a wide range of subjects, the uniqueness of the day
became evident, not just due to the stunning landscapes and wildlife encounters, but also the unexpected
solitude and camaraderie formed in the midst of Covid-induced changes. The day concluded with a sense of
satisfaction and the promise of more adventures on the Kaikoura Coast Track.
Day Two
The second day of our journey along the Kaikoura Coast Track was filled with both challenges and memorable
experiences, offering us a deeper connection to the rugged beauty of New Zealand's landscapes.
Setting off after a hearty breakfast, our adventure began with a picturesque drive through expansive
farmland, where the tales of the farm added layers of local charm to our journey. The rolling hills and vast
pastures served as a fitting prelude to the wilderness that awaited us.
As we embarked on the trail, a steady ascent greeted us, leading us across forestry slopes until we reached
the tranquil Buntings Bush Stream. The journey through the valley was punctuated by the
rhythmic crossing of
numerous streams, each adding to the symphony of nature that surrounded us.
Our path eventually led us towards Skull Peak, its summit shrouded in misty veils that
obscured the
panoramic views we had anticipated. Respectful of nature's whims, we made the collective decision to
forego
the climb, recognizing that the obscured vistas wouldn't fully capture the essence of the peak's
grandeur.
Finding solace and respite at Peak Hut, we savored a brief interlude before descending from
the
windswept tussocks into the embrace of lush bush and rolling farmland. Each step revealed new dimensions of
the landscape, underscoring the track's dynamic character and ecological diversity.
Upon reaching the coastline, we paused to witness the majestic spectacle of crashing waves against the
shore, a testament to the raw power of nature. The rhythmic cadence of the ocean served as a poignant
reminder of our place within the grand tapestry of the natural world.
Returning to the comforts of the Beach House, we bid farewell to the rugged beauty of the Kaikoura Coast.
With memories etched in our minds and a renewed appreciation for the splendor of New Zealand's
wilderness,
we embarked on the journey back to Kaikoura, where the echoes of our expedition would linger long after our
departure.
