Andros

Chora to Korthi Bay

Upon arriving at the welcoming Anemomiloi Hotel, midday had already embraced us. Despite losing a day to a ferry cancellation, we resolved to embark on our inaugural stroll from Chora to Korthi Bay. Armed with a lunch from Fresco, we departed the town and ascended towards a Greek Orthodox Church that beckoned in the distance. At the summit, the panoramic vista of Andros town unfolded before us, providing a breathtaking interlude.
Continuing our odyssey, we pressed on towards Sineti, a quaint village approximately 7 kilometers from Chora. Syneti beach, renowned for its white quartz pebbles, stalactites, and natural allure, tempted us, but our agenda steered us toward The Old Lady's Castle - a medieval bastion also known as the Upper Castle or Faneromeni Castle. Erected by the Venetians as a bulwark against pirates, the castle, perched at an altitude of 600 meters, bestowed upon us a sweeping spectacle of the island and its azure surroundings.
Legend intertwined with the castle's history recounted the tale of an old lady from the nearby village of Kochylou. The lady, privy to a secret passage, betrayed the castle's defenders to the Ottoman invaders, resulting in a tragic massacre. Overcome by remorse, she leaped from a cliff into the sea, immortalizing the spot as Grias To Pidima, or The Leap of the Old Woman—a beach adorned with turquoise waters and distinctive rock formations.
Descending swiftly from the castle, we arrived at Korthi Bay, our final destination for the day. While awaiting our affable taxi driver, Sissy, to convey us back to the hotel, we sought respite in a local bar, refreshing ourselves with a couple of drinks. Fatigue claimed me, and I succumbed to a restful slumber on the journey back to Chora.

Monastery Circuit

Our second walking day unfolded with the wisdom of an early start, aiming to outpace the anticipated 30-degree afternoon heat. The journey commenced with a leisurely stroll through enchanting gardens, unveiling glimpses of opulent villas that adorned our path.
Ascending towards Menites Spring, the landscape transformed into a picturesque scene featuring a charming stone bridge. The soothing ambiance of this spot lingered, providing respite before the impending climb. Transitioning to the village of Mesaria, the walk led us past the remnants of Mesaria Tower, weaving through a magnificent stone bridge.
As the sun climbed higher, our expedition presented a challenging ascent toward the Monastery. However, 500 meters shy of our destination, we collectively chose to defer our visit for another day. Opting for an alternate route, we turned left, tracing a winding track downhill through the lush hillside, eventually reaching the valley floor.
Subsequently, our path meandered along a dried stream for an additional hour, culminating in the charming village of Chora. With fatigue settled in, our anticipation heightened as we approached our haven - a hotel boasting a refreshing swimming pool.

Batsi to Chora

Our adventure from Drasa to Chora began with a fortuitous drop-off by our driver, sparing us a strenuous two-hour climb. The journey unfolded with a long but relatively manageable ascent to the pinnacle of the cliff. The path we traversed was nothing short of spectacular, offering breathtaking views that made the effort worthwhile.
Reaching the midpoint, we paused for a quick chat with a Dutch couple bound for Batsi, exchanging stories and experiences along the way. The charming village of Ano Pitrofosa, known for its Cyclades Olive Museum, passed by in the heat of the day, with our focus set on the path ahead rather than museum visits.
With the Monastery gracing the opposite side of the valley, Strapouries emerged as a picturesque traditional settlement. It boasted abundant water sources, vibrant greenery, and an array of churches, including a neoclassical tower house and the imposing vertical cliff named Gremnistra. The scenery provided a welcome distraction from the rigors of the journey.
Continuing along the kalderimi, which zigzagged gracefully down towards Chora, we found ourselves retracing parts of the tracks from the previous day. Familiar landmarks brought a sense of accomplishment, reinforcing the distance covered and the challenges conquered.
Finally, we reached our hotel in Chora, a mixture of exhaustion and elation etched on our faces. Tired but content, we reflected on the day's achievements, the beauty of the landscapes, and the unexpected encounters that made our walking expedition from Drasa to Chora a memorable and fulfilling experience.

Gialia Bay Circuit

Embarking on the Gialia Bay Circuit was a highly anticipated adventure during our stay in Greece. Although we had been in the country for a few days, we had yet to indulge in the pleasures of a beach day. Our spirits were high as we set out on this much-anticipated walk, eager to explore the scenic landscapes and finally dip our toes in the azure waters of Gialia Bay.
The journey commenced with an ascent along an excellent kalderimi, a traditional stone-paved footpath that wound its way up the hill to the north of town. The incline was relentless, challenging us as we climbed to an elevation of 300 meters. Our efforts were rewarded when we reached the charming village of Apikia. The instructions for our trek included a mention of a delightful waterfall in Apikia. However, the dry season had taken its toll, and the waterfall was conspicuously absent from the landscape. Undeterred, we pressed on, passing by remote houses near the historic Bistis Tower. This tall square tower, erected in the 17th century by Stamatelos Bistis, a local lord and representative of the Turkish Kadi, stood as a testament to the area's rich history. Built over a medieval tower from the 13th century, the Bistis Tower featured underground storage and numerous rooms, serving as a fascinating glimpse into the past. The tower itself was situated in the village of Stenie, adding a layer of historical intrigue to our journey.
As we continued our trek and reached Gialia, we were delighted to stumble upon a beach bar serving the most refreshing and unparalleled lemonade. Nowhere else had we encountered such an exquisite drink. Energized by the zesty lemonade, we made our way to the beach, where our dreams were realized - beautiful blue waters, soft sand, and patches of shade awaited us. The culmination of our efforts allowed us to bask in the paradise-like setting, laying down in the warm sand after a long, invigorating swim.
Regrettably, the blissful beach experience had to come to an end, and we reluctantly started our journey back. The final challenge of the day was a steep climb over the hill leading to Neimporio Beach, near Chora Port. Despite the physical exertion, we couldn't help but savor the breathtaking views along the way. Our walking day concluded on a sweet note at the Stylianou bar, where we treated ourselves to ice cream and cold beer. The satisfying taste of the treats served as a fitting end to a day filled with exploration, physical activity, and the fulfillment of long-awaited dreams.

Gialia Beach

Our second visit to Gialia Bay unfolded spontaneously, deviating from our initial plan to trek the Zagora to Chora trail. The allure of the sun-drenched shores proved irresistible, drawing us back for another day of blissful relaxation.
Opting for a more direct route, we traversed the scenic valley, ascending towards the bay. The journey took us across the main road from Chora to Gialia, each crossing offering breathtaking views of the surrounding landscapes. Reaching the hill's summit, our descent into Gialia Bay promised new explorations, guided by whispers of another hidden beach, accessible through a quaint Orthodox Church.
Passing through the church added an air of intrigue, as if unraveling the region's well-guarded secrets. The secluded beach we stumbled upon captivated us with its pristine sands and crystalline waters. However, our return to the main Gialia beach was prompted by a simple yet crucial factor: shaded areas providing a welcome escape from the relentless sun, especially for Fiona.
The remainder of the day unfolded in a harmonious cadence of relaxation and seaside delights. We reveled in the warmth of the sun, interspersed with refreshing swims and sips of cool lemonade. The familiarity of the routine brought comfort, creating a delightful rhythm of basking in the sun, immersing ourselves in the azure waters, and relishing the idyllic surroundings.
As the afternoon sun began its descent, we retraced our steps over the hill back to the hotel, accompanied by the tranquility of the landscape and the soothing sea breeze. This picturesque walk marked the conclusion of our Andros adventure, a perfect epilogue to our island escapade.

Chora

Chora/Andros boasts its traditional Cycladic architecture, characterized by pristine white buildings adorned with blue accents. Its enchanting ambiance is enhanced by narrow winding streets, and charming churches. The town is a haven for culture enthusiasts, hosting several museums and historical sites. Among them, the Archaeological Museum of Andros and the Museum of Contemporary Art stand out as noteworthy places to explore.
Our stay in Chora/Andros spanned five fantastic days. Each morning, we kicked off our day with an early breakfast, packed a pre-ordered lunch, and set out to discover various corners of the island. Upon completing our daily explorations, we rejuvenated ourselves in the hotel's swimming pool, cleaned our walking gear, and took a brief rest before venturing into Chora to uncover local culinary delights. Over time, we familiarized ourselves with the city's streets, discovered a convenient local grocery shop for fruit and drinks, and relished watching large groups of children and their parents playing together in the evenings as the temperature dropped.
Our visit coincided with The End of Summer Festival on September 16, 2023, adding an extra layer of excitement. The festival, marked by live music, Greek dancing, and delectable local cuisine from various restaurants, made our time in Andros truly memorable. The following morning, filled with fantastic memories, we bid farewell to Andros and set off for Tinos.

Tinos

Resting in Tinos

Our three days on Tinos provided a balanced blend of relaxation, exploration, and cultural immersion. Costa, the amiable owner of the Voreades Hotel, welcomed us warmly upon our arrival at the ferry terminal and graciously chauffeured us to our accommodation, where we settled in for a three-night stay.
Before delving into the island's wonders, we spent valuable time with Costa, gleaning insights into Tinos' attractions and must-visit locales. Armed with newfound knowledge, we embarked on our first day of sightseeing, starting with the captivating Agios Markos Kionia Beach. Situated 3 km from Tinos town, its unique combination of stones and crystal-clear waters provided the perfect sanctuary from the Meltemi Winds, allowing us to relish a refreshing swim. Post-beach bliss, we wandered through the charming streets of Tinos, indulging in a spot of window shopping. A simple yet satisfying meal at a street-side restaurant preceded our return to the comfort of our hotel.
The following day unfolded with a bus journey to Panormos, a village on Tinos' northeastern side steeped in maritime history. The village's natural harbor, once a bustling hub for trade, has now transformed into a port welcoming small boats. Our exploration led us to the Aeolus Rock, a natural formation paying homage to the Greek god of wind, Aeolus. After an average lunch at a waterfront restaurant, we caught the bus back to Tinos town, where we meandered through its streets, soaking in the local atmosphere before another delightful dinner.
On our last day, we ventured to a beach on the south side of town - a picturesque locale for a leisurely walk, though the robust Meltemi winds discouraged a swim. Our return to town took an alternate route, allowing us to pause at the hilltop war memorial monument, offering a moment of reflection.
The pinnacle of our Tinos itinerary was a visit to the Church of Panagia Megalochari, a significant pilgrimage center for Greek Orthodox Christians. Dedicated to the Virgin Mary, the church houses the Miraculous Icon of Virgin Mary, drawing pilgrims from across the globe. Witnessing the devotion of these pilgrims, some crawling up steep streets towards the church, was a poignant and humbling experience. The ritualistic journey to pay homage to the sacred icon underscored the deep spiritual connection between believers and the Virgin Mary. As our departure for Mykonos loomed, we decided to savor one last swim at Agios Markos Kionia Beach, etching the memory of this idyllic place into our minds before bidding farewell to Tinos—a harmonious interlude in our island-hopping adventure.

Mykonos

The Island of Windmills

Our stay on Mykonos was a delightful mix of exploration, relaxation, and scenic beauty. The Germanos Studios, where we lodged, proved to be a true gem. Nestled above the waterfront of Mykonos, the apartments offered not only a strategic location just below a vibrant and more affordable shopping area but also breathtaking views of the Cyclades that felt like a million dollars.
The labyrinthine streets of Mykonos demanded some orientation, especially without the guidance of Ariadna. Fiona cleverly documented our journey, capturing the charm of the narrow streets and the bustling atmosphere of shops, restaurants, and fellow tourists. The city's charm was magnetic, drawing us into a maze where every turn seemed to reveal another hidden gem. The city's popularity was evident, with numerous big cruising ships anchoring in the harbor daily, flooding the town with thousands of potential customers. Walking along the waterfront, from the 17th-century white church to the Old Port, exposed us to a plethora of expensive restaurants, each brimming with tourists from the cruise boats.
The iconic Windmills of Mykonos on the hill overlooking Chora and the Aegean Sea added a touch of history and charm to the landscape. Built by the Venetians in the 16th century, these windmills once served a practical purpose, grinding wheat for the island. Now, while they no longer operate, they stand as symbolic landmarks, enhancing the island's picturesque allure. Our time spent in this area, capturing the windmills against the azure backdrop, was a testament to their timeless appeal. Taking respite from the city's hustle, we explored the seafront options for swimming. Paralia Choras Mikonou, though small and crowded, provided a refreshing dip. Venturing further to Markos Beach in Mykonos Bay, we discovered a more secluded spot with shade under the trees and the inviting blue sea making the walk worthwhile.
Our routine became a harmonious blend of exploration and relaxation. After mornings and early afternoons spent in Chora, we would ascend the streets back to our apartment for a well-deserved rest before heading to a local restaurant. The evenings were crowned with a front-row seat to magnificent sunsets, a fitting conclusion to each day in Mykonos. Sitting in front of our room, we savored the views, recounting the day's adventures and appreciating the unique charm of this Cycladic gem.

Delos

Our stay on Mykonos was truly enriched by the captivating day trip we took to Delos, a small rocky island with a profound historical and mythological significance. Delos stands as a testament to Greece's rich cultural heritage and has earned its place as one of the most important archaeological sites in the country. The island's mythological roots as the birthplace of Apollo and Artemis add an extra layer of fascination to its already compelling history.
Delos served as a holy sanctuary for a millennium, long before it became intertwined with Olympian Greek mythology. Its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site underscores its importance in preserving the collective heritage of humanity. The archaeological remnants on the island vividly showcase its heyday during the 3rd and 2nd centuries BCE, when it thrived as a bustling center of trade and commerce. Delos was not merely a geographic location but a meeting point for merchants and a venue for diverse cultural and religious events.
Our journey to Delos was facilitated by one of the many boats shuttling between Mykonos and the island, making the day trip accessible and enjoyable. Exploring the archaeological site proved to be an enlightening experience, with each step revealing layers of history etched into the landscape. The climb up Mount Kynthos, the highest point on Delos, was a decision well made. From the summit, we were treated to breathtaking panoramic views of the island and the azure expanse of the Aegean Sea. This elevated vantage point provided a profound appreciation for the archaeological treasures scattered across the island, as well as the sheer beauty of the Cyclades.

Naxos

Koronie to Lionas Beach

Our walk from Koronos to Lionas Beach on Naxos was an intriguing mix of scenic beauty, unexpected challenges, and ultimately, a satisfying experience. The journey commenced in the quaint village of Koronos, where we navigated through a maze of alleys, gradually making our way to the outskirts of the built area. As we ventured along the ancient path towards the sea, the surroundings transformed, offering picturesque views of the valley. However, our initial enthusiasm faced a hiccup when we encountered an unexpected delivery truck laden with building materials. It dawned on us that a navigation error had led us off course. Swiftly correcting our route, we decided to follow the truck, a choice that, surprisingly, proved fortuitous. The truck and its associated personnel came to our rescue, guiding us to the not-so-visible entrance of an uphill track. A brief 10-minute climb, the only ascent of our walk, revealed a path that might have otherwise gone unnoticed. Such unexpected encounters, though momentarily disorienting, added an element of adventure to our journey. Encountering fellow travelers going in the opposite direction raised questions about their choice to start from the beach rather than ending there. It sparked curiosity, leaving us to ponder the various motivations behind their decision. Perhaps, each direction offers a unique perspective on the landscape, a choice that adds an intriguing layer to the overall experience. Arriving at Lionas Beach was a reward in itself. The beach, adorned with fine gray sand, white pebbles, and crystal-clear waters, stood out as one of the most captivating in Greece. Our time there was well-spent, indulging in the simple pleasures of swimming, sunbathing, and finding solace in the shade beneath the cliff. The Delfinaki Restaurant, situated near the beach, became a highlight of our journey. The Greek salad, a culinary masterpiece, left an indelible mark on our taste buds. The homely atmosphere of the restaurant complemented the delicious food, creating a memorable experience that will linger in our minds for a long time.

Mount Zas Circuit

We embarked on the challenging Mount Zas Circuit, a journey filled with both awe-inspiring natural beauty and a touch of mythology. Known as Mount Zeus, this majestic peak is the highest in the Cyclades archipelago, carrying a rich history intertwined with the legendary tales of Zeus, the king of the gods in Greek mythology.
Our adventure began near the Church of Agia, where our driver dropped us off. The initial segment of our hike involved a one-kilometer ascent until we reached a turning circle, signaling the end of the road. From there, we commenced a steep climb up a rocky gully, treating us to captivating views back towards Paros. Unfortunately, we missed the renowned Zas Cave, a site associated with the upbringing of Zeus by the Meliae nymphs.
The ascent proved to be a challenge, particularly for me, as my pace on the uphills was considerably slow. It took us nearly three hours to conquer the summit, during which we were overtaken by several energetic groups of young walkers effortlessly navigating the rocky path. Upon reaching the summit, our efforts were rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views of the Aegean Sea and the enchanting Cyclades. The sight was a testament to the allure of Mount Zas, making the arduous journey worthwhile.
The descent towards Filoti, in contrast to the ascent, was relatively uneventful. Our steps led us down the mountain without the same intensity as the upward climb. Arriving in Filoti, we decided to indulge in some cold drinks at the Puressence Cafe, a charming spot where we could unwind while waiting for our pick-up.

Apiranthos to Chalki

Embarking on the journey from Apiranthos to Chalki, Fiona and I anticipated a relatively smooth path after conquering the ascent to the summit of Mount Zas. However, our assumptions proved to be overly optimistic as we traversed the aged Kalderimia, which bore the scars of time and wear.
The initial segment of our trek commenced with a gradual and protracted uphill climb from Apiranthos, leading us to the crests of the ridges. Reaching the zenith, we veered left and ascended further towards the Chapel of Panagia Faneromeni, a 16th-century marvel built by Naxian merchant Nikolas Damalas. The chapel, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, bestowed upon us breathtaking panoramic views of the Aegean Sea and its neighboring islands. Adorned with frescoes dating back centuries, the Chapel of Panagia Faneromeni serves as a testament to the island's rich history and religious heritage.
Our descent from the chapel marked a return to the main track, steering us towards the village of Moni. Here, a serendipitous encounter led Fiona to a textile workshop, a momentary deviation that added a unique flavor to our expedition. Despite the temptation, Fiona emerged from the workshop without any acquisitions, leaving us both amused and intrigued. On the fringes of Moni, we encountered the historic Panagia Drosiani Church, a venerable structure dating back to the 6th century. Renowned as one of Greece's oldest churches, Panagia Drosiani captivated us with its well-preserved Byzantine frescoes, depicting scenes from religious narratives spanning centuries.
The final leg of our journey unfolded as we covered two more hours on foot, ultimately arriving at the charming destination of Chalki. With time to spare before our scheduled ride, we meandered through the town's vibrant streets, eventually settling in one of its numerous cafes. The well-deserved cold drinks provided a refreshing respite, capping off our adventure with a blend of cultural exploration, unexpected encounters, and the sheer joy of exploration.

Agios Mamas to Chalki

A picturesque journey from Agios Mamas to Chalki, which, compared to our two previous hikes, proved to be less demanding, sparing us from extensive climbs. The trail unfolded with diverse points of interest, offering a balanced mix of historical, cultural, and natural attractions.
Our adventure began near Agios Mamas, a Byzantine chapel nestled in the lush valley of Potamia. Dating back to the 10th century, this cruciform chapel is an architectural gem with significant archaeological importance. However, ongoing renovation work unfortunately restricted us from exploring its interior. Despite this limitation, the rich history and the role it played as the patron saint of shepherds added an intriguing layer to our journey.
The path continued, leading us to Ano Potamia, a charming village perched on a hillside surrounded by vibrant greenery. The name Potamia, meaning riverside, resonated with the flowing river that linked the three villages, creating a harmonious setting for our walk.
A notable detour took us to the Ancient Quarry of Apollonas, one of Naxos's two ancient marble quarries. Here, we marveled at the colossal Kouros of Apollonas, an unfinished statue of light grey Naxian marble, standing at an impressive 10.7 meters and weighing approximately 80 tonnes. The quarry provided a glimpse into the origins of sculpture, a significant art form of antiquity.
Returning to Ano Potamia, we pressed on towards Apano Kastro, an ancient Venetian citadel atop a rocky hill, offering breathtaking panoramic views. Meeting fellow hikers with ambitious plans to climb despite impending heavy rain, we were reminded of the importance of weather considerations during such expeditions.
Upon reaching Chalki, we seized the opportunity to explore the Vallindras Distillery, a family-owned business with a century-long legacy of producing the traditional citron liqueur of Naxos, known as kitron. This cultural detour added a flavorful touch to our journey. As the day concluded, the weather took an unexpected turn, and heavy rain transformed the streets of Chalki into fast-flowing streams.

Naxos

Our stay in Naxos town was a delightful experience, thanks to the warm hospitality of Hotel Anixis. The hotel's strategic location, just a short 5-minute walk from the city waterfront, made it a real gem for us. The highlight of our mornings was the fantastic breakfast served on the terrace, offering breathtaking views of the Temple of Apollo and the Aegean Sea. The tranquility of those moments is etched in our memories.
The convenience of prearranged transportation to and from our walking destinations proved to be a wise investment. We heard tales of other travelers enduring long queues at bus stops and missing rides due to overcrowding. Sharing taxis with fellow explorers, like the young American couple we encountered, made our journeys more enjoyable and efficient.
Navigating the labyrinth of streets in Naxos was a charming experience. While smaller compared to the maze in Mykonos, it exuded its own colorful character. We quickly familiarized ourselves with local fruit shops and the Metaximas Taverna, where we indulged in delicious local cuisine.
A special highlight was our morning stroll to the Temple of Apollo on the day of our departure. Being early birds, we were fortunate to have the entire temple to ourselves, a rare treat that allowed us to capture photos without any other tourists in sight. It was a serene and magical conclusion to our time in Naxos.

Amorgos

Aegialis to Stavros

Our journey to Stavros from Place Loza in Lagada was a harmonious blend of historical intrigue and natural splendor. Embarking from the quaint square, we ascended gently along a stepped trail towards Aghios Theologhnos, an early Byzantine church dating back to the 7th to 9th centuries, situated atop the remains of an ancient temple. Crafted from limestone, the Byzantine Vasiliki dome and 3-aisled basilica adorned the landscape, making the initial hour of our trek engaging and informative.
The path led us further to our ultimate destination, the enchanting Stavros Chapel. Perched in seclusion, the chapel boasted a charming paved terrace offering panoramic views of the countryside, mountains, and the Aegean Sea. Navigating the final kilometer along a narrow path with a 45-degree slope added an element of adventure, with low-hanging clouds occasionally obscuring but not diminishing the allure of the wild landscape. Arriving at Stavros Chapel, we encountered a couple relishing their lunch while patiently anticipating the dispersal of clouds. Witnessing diligent workers engaged in renovation activities around the chapel underscored the commitment to preserving this historical gem.
Backtracking to Aghios Theologhnos, we descended stone steps and proceeded to Panaghia Epanochoriani, a Greek Orthodox church dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Revered as one of the island's significant religious sites, it hosts an annual feast on August 15th, marked by free food, wine, and traditional music. Seeking refuge from the midday sun in the church's shade, we observed mules peacefully grazing on dried grass on a neighboring property.
The return journey featured a gentle descent to Lagada, where we traversed an ancient mule track (kalderimi) leading us back to our accommodation in Aegialis. Our walk to Stavros encapsulated a rich tapestry of history, nature, and local warmth, ensuring a well-rounded and memorable exploration of the island's diverse facets.

Chora to Aegialis

Our journey from Chora to Aegialis via the Palia Strata, the ancient path that winds along the island's backbone, was a delightful blend of history, natural beauty, and physical activity. Commencing our expedition from the Kalogerikos spot in Chora village, we embarked on a quick descent that unveiled the ancient Chozoviotiza Monastery, a gem that dates back to 1017 and was later renovated in 1088 by Alexius Comnenus I. The monastery, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, is a marvel of architecture, seamlessly integrated into the cliff face with a commanding view of the Aegean Sea. Standing at 40 meters high and 5 meters wide, the monastery's eight stories ingeniously utilize rock recesses, creating a labyrinthine interior that caters to the practical needs of its monastic residents. As we savored sips of psimeni raki, generously served by the monks, we absorbed the rich history of the monastery and its intriguing tales of past and present inhabitants.
The ascent towards the ridge brought us past an old caravan, linking us to a wider track leading to Agios Giorgios. The trail presented breathtaking vistas as we traversed an abandoned rural settlement at Asfontilitis, revealing panoramic views of Nikouria Island and Aegiali Bay. The final leg of our journey, Apano Potamos, marked the prelude to our descent into Aegialis.
Although the trek was long, its difficulty was moderate, making it accessible to a wide range of enthusiasts. The highlight, undoubtedly, was the visit to the Chozoviotiza Monastery—a genuine treat that seamlessly blended cultural exploration with the joys of outdoor activity. Our expedition left us with a profound appreciation for the island's heritage, its natural wonders, and the harmonious coexistence of tradition and modernity along the Palia Strata.

The Aegialis Circuit

Embarking on the Aegialis Circuit, we intentionally saved the shortest walk for the final day, a decision that proved both prudent and rewarding. Starting from our hotel, we ascended the kalderimi, a scenic path leading to Lagada - a traditional village nestled on the slopes of Krikellos, the island's highest peak. Lagada, situated 4 kilometers from Ormos Aegiali, exuded charm with its labyrinthine narrow streets, whitewashed houses, and quaint churches.
Venturing beyond the village limits, our journey continued along the Lagada-Stroumbos hiking trail, showcasing the timeless beauty of Stroumbos - a small settlement perched above the Araklos gorge. The village, adorned with 300-400-year-old ruined stone houses, treated us to panoramic views of the Bay of Aegiali, creating a captivating juxtaposition of antiquity and nature's splendor.
Navigating the Lagada-Tholaria trail, we marveled at the panoramic views of Panaghia Epanochoriani to our right. This path led us to Tholaria, a charming hamlet situated on a hill near the ancient Aegiali ruins - an archaeological treasure awaiting exploration. Tholaria's narrow, whitewashed streets and inviting tavernas enhanced the allure of this picturesque enclave.
Descending effortlessly, our journey reached its conclusion back at the hotel, leaving us with a profound appreciation for the Aegialis Circuit's diversity— from traditional villages and ancient ruins to breathtaking natural vistas. This trek, carefully saved for the last day, proved to be a fitting climax to our exploration of this enchanting region.

Aegialis

Our stay in Aegialis was a mixed bag, with some initial hiccups but ultimately a pleasant experience. The Askas Pension, despite its initial shower problems, proved to be a comfortable base for our exploration. Its prime location, a mere 10-minute walk from a sandy beach and 15 minutes from the town center, added significant value to our stay. One notable advantage of Aegialis was the relief from tramping up and down hills after a day of exploration. The hotel owners were notably accommodating, offering convenient taxi services with an English-speaking driver, smoothing out our transportation needs.
The leisurely after-walk swims in the sea and strolls along the waterfront, dotted with charming shops and restaurants, added a relaxing touch to our stay. Fiona found particular joy in capturing the windmill in the harbor through her lens, providing ample opportunities for her photographic passion.
Compared to other islands we visited during our holiday, Amorgos had a distinct laid-back charm. The scarcity of tourists in town created a relaxed atmosphere, eliminating the need to queue for tables or at shops. We indulged in local treats, with a bakery offering delicious baklava and a floating restaurant serving gyros to be enjoyed on a park bench. As we bid farewell to Aegialis on our departure day, we reminisced about the tranquil ambiance and set sail for our final destination, Santorini, concluding our island-hopping adventure with a sense of contentment.

Santorini

A Touch of Comfort

Our stay in Santorini was a delightful mix of exploration and relaxation. Choosing the Santorini Vallais Villa proved to be a wise decision, as its exceptional location offered million-dollar views that complemented the island''s renowned beauty. The first-rate breakfasts served at the villa were a perfect start to our days, providing a touch of luxury that we felt we deserved after our extensive walks. While Santorini is celebrated for its picturesque landscapes, it is also notorious for its high prices. To manage expenses, we opted for takeaway meals from a local bar/delicatessen, enjoying them on the balcony of our room with panoramic views.
Our penchant for walking led us on leisurely strolls, such as the one from Imerovigli to Fira, Santorini's capital. The scenic route, often referred to as "the balcony of Santorini," offered numerous photo opportunities. Fira's bustling streets, filled with tourists exploring souvenir and art shops, presented a lively contrast to the serene hills of Amorgos.
A visit to Oia, the most visited village in Santorini, showcased its authentic Cycladic beauty, whitewashed houses, and labyrinth-like alleys. We learnt that the correct pronunciation of ""Oia" in Santorini is "ee-ah" or "ee-ya.". Opting to pay a fee to skip a bus queue provided a momentary reprieve from the bustling tourist scene.
The following morning our exploration continued with a visit to Skaros Rock, a historical fortress and rock formation with medieval ruins. The panoramic views of the sea and the caldera rim, coupled with a small historical church nestled into the bluffs, painted a vivid picture of Santorini's rich history.
As our Santorini adventure concluded, we savored the tranquility of our terrace, basking in the sun, sipping cold drinks, and relishing the overall joy of life. Our stay encapsulated the perfect balance between exploration and relaxation, making Santorini a memorable destination worth every step and moment spent.

Athens

The Last of Greece

Our stay in Athens, with Piraeus as our base, provided a mix of convenience and cultural exploration. The decision to stay in Piraeus was driven by its strategic location near ferry terminals, metro stations, and our friend''s residence. The Gallery Suites & Residences Hotel in the older parts of Piraeus offered a modern, clean, and quiet retreat. Its proximity to the metro station proved especially useful for our travels, including a hassle-free journey to the airport.
Taking a unique approach to sightseeing, we focused on lesser-explored parts of Athens. A walk through the National Garden led us to the Panathenaic Stadium and the impressive Temple of Hephaestus.Temple of Hephaestus. Filopappou Hill, with its rich historical significance and breathtaking views, provided a unique perspective on the city. Returning to Piraeus, we indulged in a memorable meal in a traditional Greek tavern, accompanied by the soothing melodies of Greek music.
The following day, we headed back to Syntagma to witness the renowned changing of the guards at the Monument of the Unknown Soldier, a Sunday morning tradition performed by the Evzones, a special unit of the Hellenic Army. Exploring the Areopagus Hill, or Mars Hill, added another layer to our understanding of Athens' historical significance. The hill, once a meeting place for the city's council, offered insights into the administration of justice in classical times.
Our final day in Greece was spent seeking a serene swimming beach around Piraeus. A stroll through one of the marinas, with yachts lining the wharfs, added a touch of maritime charm. While the stony beach was adequate for a refreshing dip, it marked the conclusion of our five-month European holiday. As we bid farewell to Athens, we couldn't help but appreciate the diverse experiences the city offered, blending modern comforts with a rich tapestry of history and culture. It was a fitting end to a memorable journey before preparing for our return home the next day.