It was our second attempt to walk the Milford Track. In Nov-2021 we were lucky to get a last minute booking on Milford, just a week out from our planned Pelorus cruise and walk trip. We walked to Mintaro Hut. Unfortunately, Fiona had an issue with painful inflammation in her lower leg so we chose to turn around and go back to Glade Wharf. The alternative to continue with two long tough days ahead, risked the possibility of involving a rescue helicopter in case the leg got worse and potentially whether Fiona would be able to walk in Pelorus. Anyway, we had a wonderful time going back. We were able to see the track from a different angle, stop for a swim in the alpine river and tell the surprised, incoming walkers on the usually one way track that walking anticlockwise is much, much easier. A year on, with the old injury almost forgotten, a new worry was Fiona's infected ingrown toenail. But with her tramping boots in the backpack in case they were needed and comfy Hoka sneakers on her feet, nothing could stop Fiona from going all the way, from Glade Wharf to Sandfly Point.
Day 01
After getting ourselves to Fiordland National Park Visitors Centre in Te Anau, we picked up our pre-booked approval to enter the Milford Track and were taken by the TrackNet bus to Te Anau Downs. At the end of the 30 minute trip, we swapped the bus for a boat. An hour later, after enjoyable cruising, we reached Glade Wharf, the starting point of Milford Track. The walk to Clinton Hut is very short and easy. Because we arrived on an early boat we did not have to worry about securing bottom bunks in the hut. We spent some time on the track, slowly passing the site of Mackinnon's Two Mile Hut from 1889 and enjoying views of Dove Pass and junctions of Neale Burn and Clinton River. Upon arrival at our destination, we unpacked and decided to go back on the track to explore a short boardwalk in the nearby wetlands. In the evening the hut warden, Ross took us on a very interesting, educational nature walk. He talked about the medicinal uses of sphagnum moss. At the end of his talk, Fiona asked if she would be able to take some moss to reduce the infection caused by an ingrown toenail. As the moss would quickly grow back she was given a small bag of moss to use. She put the moss around her toe in her sock to cushion it and alongside other measures to help to reduce the inflammation.
Day 02
From our previous experiences, we knew the day would be long but relatively easy. In no time at all, around the 5 miles mark, we reached the junction of the North Branch of the Clinton River. From there the track leads to Hidden Lake Waterfall. We ignored the DOC sign about possible avalanches and decided to visit the lake. Other trampers had the same idea. Somehow we all managed to find our own private spaces for the day's first stop. Not far from Hidden Lake, we visited Prairie Lake and its waterfall. Just before the 12 mile mark, we passed St Quintin Falls lookout and Pompolona Lodge. From there the track changes and becomes steeper. Nothing extreme but we started to feel tired. We welcomed the sight of Mintaro Hut. The hut is very modern, spacious and situated on the river with multiple swimming holes. For us, the highlights of the day were Blue Ducks - Whio, spotted not far from the junction of Clinton River, weka chicks near Prairie Lake and the swim in the cold river at the end of the day.
Day 03
The big day was upon us and we were ready for it.
After two hours of steady uphill walking, we were rewarded with amazing views from the top of Mackinnon
Pass. As if the picturesque panorama of the mountains was not enough, the low-flying keas added another
level to the beauty of the moment. It took us another two hours of going down on the emergency track to
reach Maureen Falls. I must admit I was not aware of this water gem. Luckily it can not be missed. We had
this feeling that Maureen Falls, Roaring Burn, Dudleigh Falls and Lindsay Falls were just a prelude before
the big one, the Sutherland Falls. Sutherland Falls is the highest waterfall in New Zealand, 580 meters
high. It is quite an effort to get to it but it's worth the climb and extra 2 hours (return). At the end of
the day we arrived at Dumpling Hut tired but very happy and proud of our achievement.
Day 04
For a change, we were one of the last ones to leave the Dumpling Hut. We were booked on one of the last boats from Sandfly Point so we did not have to rush through the day to get to our destination. The track runs along Arthur River or not very far from it. Somewhere between the 26 and the 27 mile marker we crossed the Arthur River swing bridge closely followed by the Mackay Creek swing bridge. A very short side track took us to impressive Mackay Falls and Bell Rock. The Bell Rock is a very interesting rock formation that allows you to get inside to fully explore it. Past the 30-mile mark, the Giant Gate Waterfall was the last significant viewpoint of the day. We were a little surprised to see some day walkers coming from the Milford direction, but why not. At least they got a glimpse of the surroundings. Sandfly Point fully deserves its name. Millions of little buggers were waiting for us. The first boat that arrived was from a different company but they were happy to tell the company we had booked that we were early and ready for pick up. We could wait in the shelter and were picked up by our boat in no time at all so managed to avoid most of the sandflies. On arrival at Milford, we met some of the other walkers and we travelled together back to Te Anau with Track Net.
